Category Archives: Daily Life and Other Musings

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Fique: Fibre for Pretty Things


Spools and spools of fique fiber fill the shelves of Colombia’s artisan shops next to colorful woven bags, shoes, sacks, tapestry and little sombrero key chains. This material comes from the fique plant which has long green spiky leaves. It’s … Continue reading

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Surviving Semana Santa


Last week – Semana Santa – was one of the most religious times of year in Colombia – a country that is 90% catholic. For someone who is not religious and not used to having a huge amount of family … Continue reading

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Chicamocha Canyon


Deeper than the Grand Canyon and just as majestic, this is Colombia’s Chicamocha Canyon which we passed on our drive from Mogotes to Bucaramanga. At the bottom of the canyon is a small town which amplifies the height of the … Continue reading

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Eating Big-Ass Ants


They’ve arrived. The air in Mogotes is thick with their distinct scent. It’s woodsy, smoky, meaty. Colombians call them Hormigas Culonas. Foreigners refer to them as the “Big-Ass Ants”.  They’re shiny, about as long as the top joint of your … Continue reading

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Just Over One Month In…


…and I’m scrambling for some reliable visa information (links in the comments appreciated!). As they say about Colombia, “The only risk…” Yes, I do want to stay. There couldn’t be a place in the world more opposite from London. The chaos of … Continue reading

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Exploring Colonial Towns Barichara and Guane


BARICHARA In 1975, declared “The prettiest village in Colombia.” Altitude: 1,237m (4,058ft) Population: 4,149 Average Temperature: Around 23ºC (73°F) In the local dialect, Barichara means “Place of Rest” and it is certainly that with sleepy colonial streets and shady central … Continue reading

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The Devil’s Cascade and a Tropical Bird Hole


Our car bounced and rattled over the rocky dirt path toward La Cascada del Diablo (The Devil’s Waterfall). This picture doesn’t begin to describe the roads – they get a lot worse. The population of Mogotes really thins out once … Continue reading

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Parrots and a Great View in San Gil


SAN GIL The “adventure capital” of Colombia Altitude: 1,114m (3,655ft) Population: 33,592 Temperature Year-Round: 24 to 32ºC (75-90°F) San Gil is hot. Well, for me and my pasty white gringa skin anyway. It’s the nearest big town to Mogotes, about … Continue reading

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A Day of Soccer and Rain


This time of year, it is rainy season in Mogotes. Every afternoon around 3pm after a bright and sunny morning, the clouds roll in from behind the mountains. Thunder rumbles. Lightning crashes. At any moment, a downpour will begin. When the … Continue reading

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